You can’t set foot in Barcelona without being bombarded by GAUDÍ!

Sometimes referred to as “God’s architect,” Gaudí is big business for the tourist industry… but don’t let that deter you from experiencing his outrageous, mind-blowing creations. And even though Barcelona offers a multitude of compelling reasons to visit this beautiful progressive world-class city, Gaudí is reason enough.

The name Antoni Gaudí i Cornet (25 June 1852 – 10 June 1926) may mean little outside architectural circles or his native region of Catalonia in northeast Spain, but to discover the imagination and prolific works of this extraordinary artist is to forever change your understanding of art, architecture, nature, and the meaning of “visionary.”

I first encountered Gaudí in the 1980s when exploring mosaics, and it did not take long to become obsessed with the “modernista” movement of the art nouveau era of the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries, of which he was a prime influence. Decades before the ease of online research, I sought and devoured numerous books on his work, but it was not until 2006 I made my first pilgrimage to Barcelona to see them with my own eyes.

I’ve returned numerous times and most recently to meet an American friend who’d never visited Barcelona nor knew of Gaudí. I love to share what I know and love with the curious, so revisiting Gaudi’s work with Jina was a great pleasure.

Seven of his works in and around Barcelona have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are essential stops on the Gaudí trail: Parque Güell; Palacio (Palau) Güell; Casa Mila (La Pedrera); Casa Vicens; Gaudí’s work on the Nativity façade and Crypt of La Sagrada Familia; Casa Batlló; Crypt in Colonia Güell.

You can read about, see photos and videos online, plan your trip and buy advance tickets to skip the lines (!) at the links above. If you want to dive deeper, travel bloggers, The Independent Travel Cats, provide a more extensive list of 20 Gaudí sites and details on visiting them all.

La Pedrera / Casa Mila:
The Best Place To Begin Exploring Gaudí

Our first stop was Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera. It’s located at Passeig de Gràcia, 92, just a short stroll north of Plaza Catalunya and diagonally across the street from Casa Batló. This makes it easy to visit both in one day, but you may want to savor each experience if you have the time, as there’s a lot of sensory stimuli to absorb.

Having visited most Gaudí sites – and been wowed by each – La Pedrera offers the most comprehensive foundation for understanding and experiencing Gaudí the man, his work and the times in which he created. You don’t have to be a student or aficionado of architecture or art to appreciate the original, sometimes wacky, amazing designs and use of materials that sprang from his imagination and implemented with an innovative and highly technical understanding of his mediums .

La Pedrera was commissioned by Pere Milà and his wife Roser Segimon who had bought the corner lot on this posh avenue in 1905 and wanted Gaudí to build a private home with apartments above to rent. With spectacular undulating organic design both inside and out, it still serves as apartments for some lucky inhabitants. The rest of us get to stroll through several floors of unique, marvelous, mind-bending architectural details while informed by an intelligent and insightful audio guide in the language of your choice (part of admission).

The rooftop terrace overlooking the entire city is its own fantasy world with walkways like gentle waves and sentinel-like towers, some actually functioning as vents, provoking the imagination with whimsy and awe.

On this sunny spring day, Jina and I made several passes and didn’t want to leave this magical (some say ‘divine’) playground. But there was yet the attic to explore with its fascinating exhibitions of Gaudí’s models, methods and inspirations from nature, constructed with 270 catenary arches made from brick and arranged to resemble the inside of the Biblical whale. Really, and this was the laundry room!

Although by now I was sated with Gaudí’s out-of-this-world ideas-made-real, the self-guided tour took us through a spacious multi-roomed apartment to reveal the building’s internal layout around the spectacular inner atrium/courtyard. It is completely furnished from the early 20^th century, down to clothing and toys, with ornamental elements all designed by Gaudí.

An audiovisual explains the rapid transformation and modernization of Barcelona in the first quarter of the 20^th century, putting in context the foundation of this exceptionally creative modern city where art and nature are nurtured, valued and accessible.

Finally – myself ready for a tapa and wine but Jina soldiering on – there is the Milá family apartment converted into a temporary exhibition space, with Gaudi’s stone pillars carved with ornamental motifs and inscriptions. And, of course, there is a gift shop with many unusual high-quality items that reflect the elegance of the “work of art” building and top-notch museum quality of its exhibitions.

According to a publication at the time of construction of La Pedrera (1906-1912), Gaudi was determined to meet the needs of modern life “without the nature of the materials or their resistance being an obstacle that limits his freedom of action”. Unsurprising is that the project was controversial, well over budget and violated city codes. Surprising is that it was built at all and remains one of the most imaginative and iconic residential structures in the world.

After four hours, as we exited the massive sculpted wooden doors with their modernista stained glass, I asked Jina what she thought. “Wow. All I can say is wow.”

So go online, book your ticket, and prepare to meet one of the greatest architectural geniuses of all time.

If you have any questions or comments about Gaudi’s work, visiting his sites, or Barcelona and Catalunya in general, I’d love to hear from you below.

Notes: As at many sites, your bags will be scanned upon entry. Backpacks, shopping bags, etc. can be checked in a self-service locker room. If you can travel light, all the better. Cameras without flash are permitted. There is not a cafeteria, although I think there are vending machines for bottled water; you can also carry your own. However, there is an adjacent upscale restaurant that looks to have a wonderful ambiance.

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