Not a fan of “fine dining” restaurants, I have prided myself on being a “non-foodie,” annoyed by dishes described as if abstract art, the snotty attitudes of wait staff and the absurdly inflated prices for petite portions. But all my negativity dissolved recently in twice experiencing dinner at Mercerie “High Street Food,” a new slick, modern, trendy eatery in Rome, Italy that would, on the surface, imply all I distain.
Yes, it exudes hipness – a glass wall fronts the pedestrian street facing the ruins of ancient temples at Largo di Torre Argentina, (also a renowned cat sanctuary; cats considered messengers of the gods). The interior is sleek, with colorful cone-shaped padded stools and barrel chairs at a couple of cocktail tables near the door. A chest-high semi-circular corregated-steel bar, with a vast collection of fluted glasses suspended above, forms the focal point for stylish young black-suited professionals to lean against as the pleasant barman’s perpetual moves elevate drink-making to performance art.
Flat screens cycle artistic photos of signature “tapa-like” dishes served on elongated tryptic plates in white porcelain, intended as finger food, ergo the “street food” reference; definitely “high street.” Subtle lighting and perfectly modulated classic jazz and folk music by original artists round out the ambiance, which extends into the “intimate” dining room, where more substantiial menu items are served with with stainless and gold-tipped flatware. Even the kitchen’s frosted glass motion-sensor sliding door exemplifies attention to every cohesive modern detail.
It’s a perfect construct for inflated prices and foo-foo food. But here’s the difference: The food combinations and presentations really are imaginative and delicious, prices are reasonable, the ambiance is relaxing, and the wait staff is friendly, unpretentious, enthusiastic, knowledgeable and multi-lingual.
This combination of ostensibly hip and genuinely welcoming and worthwhile is due to the vision, expertise and personality behind Mercerie, chef Igles Corelli. Although I’d been told on my first visit that the chef was “Michelin-starred,” that meant nothing to me until my second visit when a smiling, bespectacled man gracious opened the front door. “Benvenuto! Welcome!” Signore Corelli himself.
To watch this man move about his latest creation, shaking hands with guests and speaking encouragingly to his staff between moments of relaxation over a drink with a friend, is to witness a relaxed, confident and good manager; a businessman and culinary artist enjoying the fruits of his labor.
Corelli lives up to his reputation not only as a top Italian chef, whose other restaurants have garnered awards and high praise, but as a dedicated teacher. Through professional associations and tutelage at his restaurants, his lifetime in the world of Italian cuisine – his parents owned a trattoria where he started working at age 9 – has influenced the success of a generation of chefs and pioneered nouvelle Italian cuisine.
While the little plates of innovative concoctions (starting at 7€) delight the senses, the generous salads of mixed greens with nuts, seeds, and thin slices of fruit and veggies with a subtly tangy house dressing (10€) are the best I’ve found in Rome.
As I began eating my salad, Corelli came to the table and handed me a gold-plated salad pincher, explaining it is a prototype he plans to add to the unique offerings at Mercerie. Imprinted in the round tip is the Buddhist Soka Gakkai chant, “Nam-myoho-renge-kyo.” “It’s for happiness and peace!” effused Corelli’s charming partner, Helga Buscaroli. Apparently, Corelli had a dream about them.
Richard H. Seager, my Buddhist scholar companion who’d written a definitive book on the sect, “Encountering the Dharma: Daisaku Ikeda, Soka Gakkai, and the Globalization of Buddhist Humanism,” would have been happy to explain more about the chant, which means something akin to “Hail to the glorious Dharma.” But either their English was too limited or the simple idea of happiness and peace was sufficient knowledge. 
In any case, Corelli is obviously innovating continuously and with the intention of delighting diners with both sensational food and ambiance.
Rome seems the perfect place for conversions, and Mercerie convinced me that “fine dining” may actually be an experience worth pursuing. My foodie friends will be happy to hear I’ve seen the light.
Mercerie High Street Food is located at Via San Nicola De’ Cesarini 4/5, 00186 Roma, Italia. Reservations recommended by phoning +39 340 997 2996, at their Facebook page or @Merceriehighstreetfood. You can read more about Chef Corelli here.
yes yes yes. i am thousands of miles away and want to go there now!
Grazie Judie for your enthusiastic response. I wish you were here too, and we could enjoy this “high street food” and Roma together!
I’d love to taste it!!! ?
Camilla, go with your honey or some friends… I’d love to know your experience, as a Romana.
Glad to know that you are alive and kicking and obviously eating well!
I miss your writings. I miss you madly!
Leeenda
Gracias Querida, Thanks for your support always! So many adventures to write about… getting on to years of backlogged stories. Time to just get them out, even if brief or just photos. I must make meaning of my life and writing helps do that for me, especially when I hear from dear friends. I think often of you and your remarkable architectural/interior design talent. Miss you too! xo
Hi Ayshe,
I so enjoyed reading this article and have passed it along to some friends who are traveling to Rome next month.
Hope all is well with you and that you are enjoying la dolce vita in Roma!
Liz
Liz! So wonderful to hear from you, and thanks so much for sharing the article with your friends. Yes, I am well and enjoying Roma… always so much to explore and learn! I want to hear about your creative life. Let’s catch up soon!
Can’t wait to try this place. Sounds like a winning combination of delicious food and lovely ambience.
Anita, Thank you for your kind comment! Yes, a definite check-it-out next time you’re in Rome!
Your writing drew me in from the start, as always. I love how you captured how I’ve often felt about fine dining ‘foodie’ places and your descriptions were very humorous…and true! Don’t get me wrong – I often do love fine dining if it is not stuffy and pretentious (until the bill comes), but this sounds like the best of both worlds; creative, yummy food, unpretentious staff and atmosphere, and reasonable prices. Because it was you who recommended it, I will check it out when next in Rome!
Ah, Maria! You’re the best! I love your writing too! How is “The Vegetarian Voyager” cookbook doing? It’s a wonderful read and resource! Thanks for the encouragement and commisserating about the “foodie” thing. I was thrilled to have this different sort of experience! Let me know where we might meet up sometime this year! xo
Love the article. Great writing! Sounds fantastic!
Thanks, Jan! Your writing from the heart – along with your beautiful painted images at https://www.janhcroteau.com/ are a motivating and inspiring part of my getting back to writing as a way of making meaning from my travels and life adventures.
Aysha, your writing is inspiring and so descriptive! Your article makes me want to hop on a plane to Rome and try out this restaurants’ food. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much Susan! I wish you could/would jump on a plane and come visit. We could probably convince Igles to geta piano in there for you to play and sing and work your magic!
Great story, Aysha, and great writing. Lets go there for dinner!!
Lucia, Thanks! I’d love to go there with you.
Susan, Thanks for your kind comment. Wish you would hop a plane, but in any case I look forward to our next time together.
Aysha, I miss seeing you in Colorado and New Mexico, but am always glad to read of your adventures —especially in Rome. Sending hugs!
Ah Dear Stormy, I miss you too, and Dr. Burns. I trust there are more adventures ahead for us to share. Baci e abbreaci!