The full moon hovered large and bright above the mesas, accompanying my pre-dawn shuttle van from Santa Fe to Albuquerque, like a friendly blessing to my farewell to winter and the start of my trip to San Miguel de Allende, in the central “Bajio” region of Mexico.
I had visited San Miguel 37 years ago when living for six months in another nearby Spanish Colonial city, Guanajuato. While I knew that it and I had changed, I was eager to discover how.
The most marked difference (besides the increase in cars, technology and availability of U.S. goods) is being a Baby Boomer in a city that attracts my ex-pat contemporaries. Instead of being footloose college-age kids, passing through hostels and swapping stories of cheap eats and travel plans, there is an extraordinary community of accomplished, creative people (heavy on the female gender) who have made San Miguel their home, full or part time.
My Santa Fe friend, sculptor and jeweler Karen Wight, has made her full-time home here for five years and invited me to stay in her spacious house/studio in Colonia Guadalupe, a traditional neighborhood in easy walking distance of everything in the city.
Having a local friend always enhances the experience of a new place, but Karen’s many established connections, interests and community engagement, rocketed me into the middle of a vibrant movable feast of food, friends, music, dance, literature, art and general socializing.
While Santa Fe is renowned for many of the same attributes as San Miguel – art, culture, architecture, fiestas, markets, alternative therapies – the difference for me is the genuine openness and welcome I have received here; unlike anywhere I’ve been.
In just four days, I have attended to two private parties and several cantina meet-ups where conversation and tequila flow freely; met almost every vendor at the Saturday organic market at Parque Benito Juarez, and numerous shop and gallery owners (ex-pats who have created businesses here); added more than a dozen personal contacts to my address book of people I want to know; and participated in an annual 10k walk – at the beginning of the 9-day pilgrimage of the faithful to San Juan de Los Lagos – to raise awareness and support for ending domestic violence.
I have visited the baroque-gothic cathedral, La Parroquia de San Miguel Archangel (the tall spires in this photo) and found a favorite food stall at the Jardin across the street with tasty chicken tacos and fries for less than $2. I have walked many of the cobblestone streets and sat in cafes, danced to live music, watched the sun set over the distant arid hills from rooftop decks; visited the public library (“biblioteca”) with its mural-rich rooms and elegant stone courtyard; and taken many photos of the colorful buildings for which San Miguel is famous. I have stayed out late and risen early to the adamant crowing of neighboring roosters. So far, I have found nothing disappointing and am enjoying every minute.
As fund-raising expert, tour guide and botanical illustrator Dianne Aigaki confirmed for me at a small gathering last night, “There is a plethora of phenomenal people in San Miguel.” Her decades-long experience in and out of San Miguel is that it attracts those who want to get back on track from wherever they may have gotten off years ago, or those who are following their creative dreams, or women of a certain age for whom San Miguel offers close friendships and a safe, ready-made social scene.
No doubt, being in a foreign country offers a sense of solidarity and potential for deeper expression or reinvention, but I suspect there is much more… and I intend to find out.
I am trusting in La Luna, which sent me off from Santa Fe in the fullness of the feminine, to guide me in this adventure. Please stay tuned!
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Looks and sounds wonderful. Inhale some of that sunshine for me. Please post lots of pics and keep the stories coming.
Big Love!
Fun Blog Aysha! Great to have your presence in my home and thank you for sharing your experience of our wonderful city …San Miguel de Allende!
more photos please 🙂
Aysha, I love those brilliant Mexican colors! Sounds like you’re loving it & keeping busy. Has your Spanish all come back?
Jan, I am enjoying the sunshine for us all and will post more photos soon. With such an intense social life (and interesting projects and possible work), it’s hard to find time to blog, but I will.
Karen, Muchas gracias con todo mi corazon!
Jann, It’s difficult to practice Spanish hanging out with Americans, many of whom don’t even try to learn…one of the pitfalls of an ex-pat community. But I speak to shop owners and taxi drivers and will begin an intensive course on Feb. 7, which should make a difference. More brilliant colors coming soon!
Way to go Aysha. It great to hear you are getting in the swing of things right away. You are most blessed to have encountered the people you have. I especially like this point:
“Having a local friend always enhances the experience of a new place, but Karen’s many established connections, interests and community engagement, rocketed me into the middle of a vibrant movable feast of food, friends, music, dance, literature, art and general socializing.”
It captures an essence I think is most times over looked, but I’m glad you found it. Not to mention the writing alone is exquisite!
It sounds like you have the ball rolling there’s no stopping you now!
I am now subscribed and can’t wait to hear more.
Matthew
Thanks Matthew, waiting for your blog from Seville!
Hi Aysha. Its terrific to experience San Miguel de Allende through your writing and photography. It sounds a marvelous time you are having. Makes me want to hit the road immediately….ha ha! Wish I could be saying ‘see you there soon’. Your blog will transport me!
oxxo
Simon
This is wonderful, Aysha. Especically enjoying it from the snow-clogged northeastern U.S.
Lon, It is a great treat. I do not take this for granted. Be well, stay warm. The earth continues to turn.
My pleasure to entertain you and your girls. Enjoy and keep in touch please! Hugs all ’round!
Are you seeing them now? I hope so. I always love yours of Spain. I think you’ll see quite the similarity here – architecturally and culturally. It is, after all, Spain’s New World!
What an adventure! I did not know you were out of the country. I will continue to follow your journey on your blog.
Love,
Aase
Aase, Great to hear from you! I hope you email subscribed so you’ll receive the blog, and then please leave more comments on the blog itself as you did. I am loving San Miguel and will post more after this weekend’s hectic schedule at the Writers’ Conference. Be well and keep in touch, Aysha